If you visit Madeira, the chances are that you will visit Funchal. If you go to Funchal you are almost certain to go to the Monte Palace Tropical Garden, high up in the mountains, reached by cable car. Buses slip past with posters claiming (according to Conde Nast) Monte Palace Tropical Garden is one ‘of the 13th Most Beautiful Botanical Gardens in the World’. Well it is not a botanic garden so we will park that idea especially because it reinforces the perennial confusion between this garden and the true botanic garden on the neighbouring bluff.

But the garden is worthy of all the attention it gets and I can see why it is so popular even without the (almost mandatory) cable care ride (the cable car was only opened in late 2000, having taken a year to construct), and the more famous toboggan ride (part way) back down the hill.

It is a wonderful example of what you can do with oodles of money, lots of imagination and absolutely no taste.

I must emphasise that this is not meant as a criticism – this is a very personal creation and all the more wondrous for that. Parts of the garden, especially those around the main house, are like walking through an Escher drawing and I loved it. Add lots of surprises, some nice plants, a good cafe and you have a very satisfying way to spend half a day or more.

The adventure begins, for most, with the cable car from Funchal. This is not Tripadvisor but it is worth saying that the cable car stops just by the entrance to this garden. Then, if you want to, you have a ten minute walk to another cable car that goes across a ravine to the Botanic Garden. Or you can visit the church or other attractions in the town/village. The main cable car ticket does not include admission to the Monte garden. There are also buses that go to Monte from Funchal. The cost of the cable car is €20 return. Avoid going when there is a cruise ship in town and always try to get to the cable car and the garden early. We got to the garden at 10am and it was quiet. By the time we left, after lunch, it was busy (but not packed – it is large site).

The garden does boast lots that will amuse the lover of plants. There are tree ferns, an impressive collection of cycads and much more. But, as someone who used to work in a bromeliad nursery and loves them, it was great to see them used as ground cover in great swathes.

The garden is not all about plants though and there are other amusements such as the flamingoes. Some people object to them but they seemed happy enough and certainly add another level of interest. At the entrance, and the top part of the garden is a small ‘museum’ of modern art which I am sure is of some significance but I was eager to escape it. And below that is a large collection (700 samples) of crystals and gemstones set in a large subterranean ‘cave’, some set in naturalistic alcoves.

The garden dates back to the 18th century when this property, south of the church with views down over Funchal was bought by the British Consul General. In 1897 it was purchased by Alfredo Guilherme Rodrigues who built the house, inspired by palaces he had seen along the Rhine. It was opened as the ‘Monte Palace Hotel’.

The hotel closed after the death of Rodriguez in 1943 but the house was bought by a businessman in 1987 and reopened as the Monte Palace Tropical Garden.

The garden has lots of focal points and an emphasis on ‘Oriental’ gardens, with red-painted features and ornaments littered around the site. Combined with water and some bamboos but also tree ferns, palms and cycads it presents a not overly authentic but curiously satisfying result.

Walls are covered, where not in greenery, in tiles and panels showing the history of Portugal, Japan and things I did not understand. It is all very ornamental.

A visit to Monte Palace is a real adventure and unlike any garden I have seen elsewhere. Although I would not rate the range of plants as ‘absolutely top notch’, there is a huge collection and all is well maintained and labelled. Cafes were OK the loos were clean and I am very pleased that I had the chance to visit.